El Güero, toda la vida haciendo churros

by soporte_pa652wzf 149

Andrea Murillo

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Fotografía: Enrique Hernández Ávila, mejor conocido como “El Güero. (Andrea Murillo)

02/octubre/2014 Guzmán, Jalisco. (LF) Enrique Hernández Ávila, mejor conocido como “El Güero” heredó el ofició de churrero desde  muy pequeño. Él, junto con sus hermanos son la tercera generación en la venta de churros de su familia, y calcula que desde hace aproximadamente 100 años trabajan con la receta secreta de los Hernández. 

Es un arte lo que hace “El Güero”: llena la jeringa y apunta al cazo para que salga la masa y se formen las roscas, corta pedazos de doce centímetros y cuando ya están dorados, los espolvorea cada uno de azúcar mezclada con chocolate y canela- si el cliente desea-, enseguida lo coloca en una bolsa para su venta.

“Yo no conocí la infancia”

Enrique detuvo sus estudios en sexto de primaria para comenzar a trabajar. Ha sido panadero, chofer, mecánico, electricista y hasta dulcero, de todo un poco. Añora su niñez ataviada de trabajo que no le permitió disfrutarla, dice que no conoció la infancia, pero recuerda con dicha y orgullo el don que Dios le dio para hacer muchas cosas, trabajar y sacar adelante a su familia.

Receta familiar

“Todo está en la calidad del producto”, dice.

Necesita invertirle buen material al producto para que les guste a las personas y vuelvan por más churros. Es la ideología de los Hernández. “El Güero” tiene dos hermanos que venden churros en los Estados Unidos, les va bien, dice. Y otros dos más en Ciudad Guzmán, uno en la esquina de San Isidro y otro en el Tianguis.

Todos los lunes descansa y su hija atiende el puesto. A Enrique lo apoyan sus tres hijos, estudian y trabajan con su papá, al igual que su esposa, quien lo ayuda para elaborar las papas que también venden.

En cinco minutos prepara la masa

Para Enrique no implica mucho esfuerzo elaborar la masa, en cinco minutos prepara el material sin ensuciar la cocina. Es sencilla su elaboración, posee ingredientes secretos, se requiere de harina y agua hervida para cocer la mezcla. No habla de los ingredientes de la receta, es familiar y una incógnita para los clientes, y es que de ella se mantienen 60 personas, menciona.

Herramientas para trabajar mejor  

Además de churrero, Enrique es un inventor, él crea sus herramientas de trabajo. Menciona que no se le dificulta hacer modificaciones a su negocio, ya que a la personas les gusta ver novedades.

“Mis utensilios son hechizos pero me han servido de mucho, mi molinera yo la hice y me funciona pues por ella elaboro mi masa en cinco minutos, sólo vi en las tiendas los diseños y los hice. Ahora estoy planeando hacer una churrera eléctrica, y lo que necesito es un riel, un gato eléctrico de pistón y una jeringa, todo será de fierro. El riel lo colocaré en la parte superior de mi puesto y la jeringa irá enganchada en el gato, éste hará presión y saldrá la masa del cilindro, pero claro que este cilindro lo haré más ancho y pequeño para que le quepa más masa. Además que no va a salpicar a nadie porque va a estar a una cierta distancia”.  

“Los zapotlenses son churreros”

Cuando su puesto estaba a las afueras de Catedral, durante las fiestas josefinas, llegó a vender hasta $70,000 mil pesos por día, pero lo desalojaron. Su venta disminuyó notoriamente a $7,000 mil por día en estas fiestas, “pero me sigue yendo bien”, menciona.

Entre semana su carro está por la Avenida Ramón Corona, afuera del “Harinero”, y  los fines de semana se pone a un costado del kiosko, en el jardín principal.

Recuerda que un día de feria sintió gran agotamiento en sus brazos: ya no podía sostener la jeringa ni cortar las roscas, se sentía desfallecer y a todas las personas que llegaban por churros Enrique les decía: “Pérame una hora y te vendo los que quieras, es que ya no puedo”.  

En un día ‘normal’ vende $3,000.00. Pero también hay ventas malas en las que gana $500.00 o $300.00 por día.

Los fines de semana son los más pesados, pero son los mejores, describe Enrique. Se termina los 45 kilos que carga.

El truco del churrero

“De tanta venta que tiene uno, saca trucos del tazón”, dice.

Esto es en situaciones cuando la masa está por terminarse, en casa no hay reserva y están esperando churros más de 15 personas. El truco consiste en elevar la jeringa unos 50 centímetros del cazo, así la masa saldrá más delgada, las rocas se multiplicarán y los churros alcanzarán para todos.

“Los gabachos en las fiestas a San José compran hasta cuatro roscas en un ratito, y a veces piden que se las de pre cocidas para llevarlas a los Estados Unidos y ellos allá las fríen”.

¿Por qué corta las roscas con tijeras? “Las corto con tijeras porque es más fino el corte, si lo hiciera con un cuchillo quedaría abierta la punta, no sería uniforme, es decir al ras, y se le saldría la masa. Además que con tijeras es más rápido”, responde.

El promedio de vida de un churro es de 24 a 30 horas, no tienen conservador y los podemos acompañar de un café, chocolate, chocomilk, champurrado, atole “y hasta de agua o refresco”, dice Enrique. 

Cuando trabajas con lumbre

“Ayer reventó una rosca, salpicó y me quemó el brazo. Cuando haces este trabajo debes estar bien atento con lo que haces y más cuando los clientes se arriman, pero lo bueno que reventó cuando no había clientes. Son raras las veces que me pasa eso, pero siempre hay que estar preparado”, dice.

En una ocasión tenían muchos pedidos, era domingo en días de feria y trabajaban con tres cazos. La temperatura indicada para trabajar es de 70º u 80º grados, bajarla unos minutos a 40º para que las roscas no se quemen, es lo indicado, pero esa vez los Hernández no se daban abasto, tenían muchos pedidos y clientes esperando alrededor de su puesto. Enrique decidió subir la flama, ésta rozó el aceite, y por ese pequeño roce prendió la flama y subió hasta tocar el techo del puesto. Por fortuna no pasó nada, no quemó a ninguna persona pero sí se llevaron un gran susto y una lección para no volverlo a hacer.

Protección Civil brinda cursos de capacitación y prevención de accidentes a todas las personas que laboren con fuego y gas. Enrique se siente seguro de que en cualquier situación que ocurra un incidente como el que le sucedió hace ya varios años sabrá cómo darle solución, además de brindar apoyo a compañeros en situaciones de riesgo, “como compañeros debemos de darnos la mano”, dice.

“Ésta es mi herencia”

“Amo este oficio porque me da el sustento de mi familia, me da todo. Me vengo bien feliz, me voy bien feliz”. 

Lo primordial para Enrique es que sus hijos estudien, se preparen y no se dediquen solamente a vender churros. En el negocio le va muy bien, pero a veces le va mal. Trabaja en el intemperie, se calienta y en ocasiones se moja por la lluvia, con eso puede contraer enfermedades como reumas o artritis.  

A sus hijos no les molesta a trabajar el puesto de su padre, al contrario, lo disfrutan y valoran.

“Ellos deben tomar una profesión y no un ramo. Lo más valioso para mí es que estudien y se preparen para ser mejores que yo”.

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